A pity. That’s the impression left after dining last night at “De Bokkedorns”. A caveat: I booked knowing that was the “dining with the stars” week, and that means: set menu. And that means: chefs trying to squeeze out whatever they can from a somewhat reduced budget. And that should not be the reason why you go to such an establishment, two michelin stars and a big name. You don’t go to “De Bokkedorns” to save money, you’d better stay at home, then. You go to enjoy and enrich your culinary culture. That didn’t happen yesterday or, better, the second part didn’t. But since the chefs were willing to take this challenge (providing quality at a cheaper price, against the Chinese wisdom which says: “There are the good things, and there are the cheap things”. ) I also was.

The evening was definitely enjoyable and we did not go back home angry, or hungry. That said: the choice of “gerechten” as well as the portions lacked in spark, flame and any other sort of combustion. It was plain good food where the presentation was, in my humble opinion, pumped up to try somehow to mask the forced choice of lesser ingredient. A potato is a potato is a potato, you can cut it fancy and cover it in sauce, but it does remain a potato. Scallops are truly not to be used as the main focus of any serious dish. If the main dish is pheasant, though wild and Scot, please do put some serious meat on the plate, it will cost truly little more but, marketing-wise, will prove a winning move. Or even put directly half a pheasant, let the customer enjoy the bone-plucking. And cook it thoughrogly, pink doesn’t look good here. And serve it very warm, hot if possible. Lukewarm and pink, as I ate it, it’s a bit of a challenge but I thought it might have been the chef’s interpretation and went for it. If that was indeed the case, he will not find me among his fans. Last but not least: put chocolate in your chocolate dessert. Not an idea, not the color of, not a picture on the table to remind the customers what it’s all about, the real thing and a lot of it. The petit patisserie was WAY better than the main dessert, and that speaks volumes! It means that things CAN be done, it is just a matter of will. And costs, of course.

On the positive side: the service! Nice young people with good command of a few languages for, at times, unusual ingredients (quince & baba’, anyone?) and who are taking extra time to provide a tip-top service to every customer.

The wine was “OK” and, for a total bill of 219 euros (two persons), I would have expected a bit more than “OK”. It is relatively easy to offer fancy (and famous) names for 400 or more euros on the wine list, it is more complicated to give strong emotions with a 10 euro glass, it means you know more of wine than I do. Or else, as in the case, that you don’t.

But truly, these lines are a reflection on the evening more than on the restaurant itself. Which I will be trying again choosing from the menu and from the wine list next time, to understand the full potentiality of kitchen and cellar. Still I cannot declare myself satisfied of a “dining with the stars” evening, I will arrange my next time it trying to avoid it. Maybe the Chinese do know better.